Licensed & Insured Independent Pros
Calls go to independent contractors carrying liability coverage and licensing where required, including those who work with builders on new construction.
Foundation walls wicking moisture, weeping at tie-rod holes or showing efflorescence? Call now and we'll connect you with an independent, licensed and insured contractor in Flower Mound who seals foundations below grade, for new builds and existing homes.

Here's something most homeowners never hear: the black coating sprayed on most new foundations is damp-proofing, not waterproofing. Damp-proofing slows vapor. It doesn't bridge cracks, and it breaks down over time in wet soil. Once the soil around the house saturates, water pushes through shrinkage cracks, tie-rod holes, form joints and pipe penetrations.
Block foundations add another weak point. The mortar joints and hollow cores soak up moisture, which shows up as white efflorescence, peeling paint and a constant damp feel. Foundation waterproofing treats the wall itself as the barrier, using membranes, sealants and drainage layers designed to hold back water, not just vapor.
For new homes, it's far cheaper to do it right before backfill. For existing homes, contractors can excavate and retrofit, or combine targeted exterior work with interior drainage.

Not every foundation faces the same water. A house on sandy, well-drained soil with a low water table needs good protection and a working footing drain, but it isn't fighting constant pressure. A house on dense clay, a low lot or a site with a seasonal high water table has water sitting against the wall for weeks. That second house needs a heavier membrane, a drainage board with real flow capacity and a footing drain that can keep up.
For most homes, a spray-applied rubberized membrane is the go-to. They go on seamless, wrap around tie-rods and penetrations, and bridge hairline cracks. The key quality check is thickness: the crew should measure wet film thickness as they go, because a membrane applied too thin won't perform as rated.
Commercial foundations and tough sites often get sheets or bentonite. Sheets give a consistent factory thickness, which helps on large wall areas. Bentonite swells when it gets wet and seals small gaps on its own, though it needs to be confined by backfill to work properly.
Membrane and drainage work as a pair. Drainage board and a footing drain take the pressure off, so the membrane only has to deal with water that's already moving away. Skipping drainage to save money is one of the most common reasons foundation waterproofing fails early.
What drives the price is mostly how hard the wall is to reach. On new construction, with the walls already exposed, you're paying for materials and application. On an existing home, excavation, hauling, shoring for deep trenches and restoring landscaping usually make up the larger share of the bill. A contractor should break those pieces out separately so you can see where the money goes, and so you can compare a full-perimeter job against sealing only the walls that actually leak.

Foundation waterproofing is a materials job as much as a labor job.
Calls go to independent contractors carrying liability coverage and licensing where required, including those who work with builders on new construction.
Pricing is written by wall section or linear foot, with membrane type, drainage board and footing drain called out separately.
Builders on a schedule and homeowners with active seepage both get quick scheduling from contractors who work in Flower Mound.
Airless spray rigs for fluid-applied membranes, wet film thickness gauges, pressure-wash surface prep and low-pressure injection kits for penetrations.
Each layer does a specific job. Together they keep the wall dry.

Seamless elastomeric membranes applied at a measured thickness stay flexible and bridge hairline cracks as the concrete moves.
Self-adhering sheet membranes give a consistent factory thickness, and bentonite clay panels swell when wet to seal themselves. Both are common on commercial foundations and high water table sites.
A dimpled drainage board over the membrane protects it from rocks during backfill and gives water a free path down to the footing drain, relieving pressure on the wall.
A gravel-bedded, filter-wrapped drain at the footing carries water away so the membrane isn't holding back a saturated trench.
Tie-rod holes, pipe sleeves and conduit entries are the most common leak points in poured walls. Contractors seal them with hydraulic cement, polyurethane injection or flexible sealant collars.
A cement parge coat fills block joints and gives the membrane a solid, smooth surface to bond to.
Most foundation waterproofing failures trace back to a handful of shortcuts. The first is skipping surface prep. A membrane applied over dirt, loose parging or form release oil won't bond, and water gets behind it within a few seasons. The second is applying it too thin. Fluid membranes are rated at a specific thickness, and a crew in a hurry can easily put on half that.
The third is leaving out the drainage board, which lets sharp backfill puncture the membrane and leaves water pressing against the wall instead of draining down. The fourth is a footing drain with no outlet, or one that discharges into a spot that floods. The last is backfilling with the same clay that came out of the hole, which holds water against the wall. A contractor who explains how they avoid each of these is one who has seen what happens when they're ignored.
On an existing home, ask the contractor how they'll protect the membrane during backfill, where the footing drain will discharge and how the final grade will slope. Those three answers tell you more about the quality of the job than the brand name on the membrane bucket.
Here's the sequence from the first call to backfill.
Call +1-866-476-1348 and tell us whether it's new construction or an existing home, and where you're seeing moisture.
A local independent contractor schedules a site visit, coordinating with your builder if the walls are still exposed.
The contractor inspects the walls, checks soil and drainage conditions, recommends a membrane system and gives you a written quote.
After application and drainage install, you'll get photos before backfill and a walkthrough of the warranty terms.
Call now for a free referral to a licensed, insured independent foundation waterproofing contractor in Flower Mound.
Call +1-866-476-1348We were building and the plans only called for damp-proofing. The contractor walked us through the difference and applied a real membrane with drainage board. The basement has been dry through two wet springs.
Jordan P., Flower Mound
Three snap-tie holes leaked every storm. They were injected in an afternoon and haven't leaked since.
Mei L., Flower Mound
They excavated our worst wall, parged the block, applied a membrane and replaced the footing drain. The wall is dry now.
Carl B., Flower Mound
Clear quote, showed up when promised and sent pre-backfill photos without me even asking.
Ana V., Flower Mound
Damp-proofing resists moisture vapor only. Waterproofing uses thicker, flexible membranes designed to stop liquid water under hydrostatic pressure.
Yes. The contractor excavates to the footing, cleans and repairs the wall, then applies a membrane, drainage board and footing drain before backfilling. It's more involved than interior work but stops water at the source.
Quality membranes protected by drainage board are generally expected to last for decades. Ask the contractor for the manufacturer's rated lifespan and the written warranty terms.
It's the cheapest moment to do it. The walls are already exposed, so you're paying for materials and labor, not excavation. Retrofitting later costs far more.
Often. Interior injection is a common, effective fix. If many points leak, a broader solution may be more cost-effective.
Requirements vary locally. Excavation, drainage tie-ins and structural repairs are the most likely to need one, so ask the contractor who handles it.
We connect homeowners, builders and property owners throughout Flower Mound with independent foundation waterproofing contractors who work locally. That covers new construction, additions and existing homes.
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